Journey to Source

Racing through the Rooftop of the World

2007-07-02T08:26:00.000-07:00

Oxygen-filled cabins. Automatic doors. Small table with smaller fold-up seats by the passage-way. Boiling-hot water for making instant noodles. Push-cart service selling take-aways and water-melon. Six-to-a-cabin hard-sleepers or four-to-a-cabin soft sleepers. Buffet car serving dinner that usually don't survive the journey because rumour has it that the staff ate up all the food. Large double-glazed windows offering a view of endless mountain ranges, glistening lakes, engulfing clouds and grazing wildlife.

That's what makes up the memories of the Qinghai-Tibet train-ride. Even during the waking moments.

The Qinghai Tibet Express speeds across the plains, reaching altitudes as high as 5,072m at the famous Tanggula Pass. Departing from either Shanghai or Beijing, the ride can take up to 52 hours non-stop until it pulls into the train station at Lhasa.

My ride began at Xining, Capital of Qinghai Province and didn't end until it covered 1,956km worth of railway track to arrive at Lhasa. The entire journey took 26 hours and spanned across some of the most breath-taking scenary the top of the world has to offer.

I guess even heavenly bliss can sometimes be marred by inconsiderate human behaviour. I was annoyed by a group of affluent mainlanders who spoke several decibels higher than they really need to, playing cards while paying little respect to other passengers' need for quiet and rest, eating and littering and smoking in the cabin and generally bahaving badly.

Notwithstanding, the imagery passing by outside the window tells of a different world - one of abundance, magnificence and resilience, all etched into the rocks, sands, clouds, rivers, sky and grass that quickly forms a picture before disappearing outside its termporal frame forever, only to be alive again in the mind's eye thousands of miles away.

Here, on this passage through land and time, every moment is a postcard picture and every scene a snapshot waiting to be frozen in time.

It is in this world of fleeting moments of natural beauty that one easily finds himself to be happily lost. Isn't this - life?

Mirror of the Heavens

2007-06-26T10:59:00.000-07:00

While sorting out my photos, I couldn't help but drift back in time to the day I ascended 4700m to Namtso Lake - the highest lake in the world.

And what a spectacular sight it was!

A flat calm watery surface stretches out into the misty distance to join the rugged outline of snow capped mountains, reflecting the wispy clouds that almost caresses its pure and unbroken face. And the blue - it's like nothing I've ever seen... The Tibetans tell of a love story between the highest peak - Nychentangla and the lake - Namtose, and how the heroic mountain casts its reflection onto her face to be united in love. The only thing that breaks the spell of a perfect calm and stirring the reflected image of the mountains are seagulls and wild geese diving in to fish for supper.

What do you do when set upon such perfect beauty? You simply stand in awe...

Two weeks and Twenty Gig

2007-06-24T09:21:00.001-07:00

In a flash, two weeks has passed since my flight back from the high altitudes of Tibet.

And I'm still sorting out the photographs - hence the lag in updating this blog.

Apart from piecing the facts and information together, I'm transferring photos from my CompactDisk to my computer and a new external portable hard-disk I just acquired. It's not because of the GSS, nor the impending GST hike next month that I got myself a long-overdue portable hard-disk. It's because I had taken more than 20 Gbytes of photos (16,954 pictures in high res mode).

I do hope you'll check back soon as I'm planning to put more pictures and information up. In the meantime, here's the answer to the trivia question I posted in the previous entry:

Pilgrims who visit monastries often carry with them Yak butter, which they melt and pour into large receptacles with lighted candles. Yak butter is also widely used in Tibet for food - as a mix in Tsampa - powdered roasted wild barley staple and also in the famous Yak Butter Tea.

Till my next update, here's another trivia - what's the name of the highest lake in the world?

I'd like to thank the wonderful team that made my journey possible, especially the wonderful people at X-Trekkers (http://www.x-trekkers.com/) - thanks for their professionalism, integrity and helpfulness. They made all the arrangements so my journey was almost a walk down Orchard Road. If you're looking to go to Tibet, look for X-trekkers. Thanks CK for all your help!

Thanks also to all my guides, agents and drivers - Phuntsok (Guide, Owner of Windhorse Adventure Tours) , Pema (Guide - Xining), Mr Shi (Driver), Dho Kho (Owner, Namchen Tours), Migmar (Assistant Manager, Namchen Tours), Tashi (Guide - Lhasa), Gumpo (Guide - out-skirts) and Dawa (Driver) - Thanks for showing me the warmth at the top of the world.

The Palace at the Top of the World

2007-05-29T04:55:00.000-07:00

Greetings from Lhasa!

I've been on the road for the past few days and rushing from site to site so didn't have a chance to blog. And when I finally get a terminal that works, the system doesn't allow me to upload anymore pictures than the following. Still my dear friends, enjoy Potala Palace!

View of Potala Palace from the main street.

Potala in splendid sunshine

Entering the palace grounds

Notice to tourists. Read the fine prints

Stairway to the Dalai Lama's Winter Palace

Breath-taking: both view and steps climbing

Pensive monk looking over Potala walls

View from a trishaw - just 5RMB (SGD1) for a ride anywhere in Lhasa

I'll make more attempts to upload more pictures and also update the entries. But in the meantime, I'll leave you with a little trivia: what do pilgrims add to the candles of light in all the monastries?

Till then, tashidelek!

Day Eight - Jyekundo to Xining

2007-05-23T03:18:00.000-07:00

Saturday, 19 May 2007

4.50am - I woke up and packed my bag. Knowing that we wouldn't be having breakfast till much later (the shops don't open early in the rurals), I made myself a cup of coffee and have a snack bar to give me energy.

5.15am - Met up with Mr Shi and Pema and drove our way out of a sleeping Jyekundo in darkness.

Sun rising over the tibetan plains

The sun peering out over the mountains

Crossing the bridge into Domda

Stop for breakfast at the only restaurant open at 7.50am

On our way again after a nice big bowl of vermicelli with mutton and bread, washed down with salted tea.

View of a river meandering into the distance

Highway 214 to Xining

An eagle watches over at Da Ye Ma Ling mountain pass. Elevation 4326m.

An ealge's nest along the road

Grazing to clear blue skies and waters

The famous Huang He Luo Li - in its natural form

And when cooked in hot pot

Mr Shi's treat at Mato!

Road block for almost an hour

Two lanes become none

Dark clouds gather around Heka en-route to Xining

Rain is imminent

Snaking up the hills at Heka

Speeding our way into Xining

Making our way on the Xi Dao Yi Ji (West Way No One)

We arrive at Xining at 6.30pm, after driving for about 12 hours and for more than 800km. We returned to the Overseas Chinese Building where I would stay for the next few days before my journey to Lhasa. I bought Mr Shi and Pema dinner and had a taste of "Si Lu Hua Luo" - a 45% alcohol that taste like vodka.

Cheers to a successful expedition to the source!

Mani Moments

2007-05-23T01:41:00.000-07:00

Just a short drive from Jyekundo town lies one of the largest Mani stone fields in the whole of Tibet - the Gyanak Mani. According to my trusty guidebook (Footprint - Tibet, by Gyume Dorje - whom both Mr Shi and Pema had the pleasure of working with before), the mani stone field is about 1 sq km wide. I took my time to take in the sight of devotion of such monumnetal scale.

Painting of Buddha marks the start of the mani field, facing west.

Circumambulating the mani field in a clockwise direction

Tibetan devotee spinning her prayer wheel while circumambulating the mani field

Rest in peace at the foot of a holy mani pile

Young and old partake in the walk of faith

Beautiful hand-paintings of buddhas

For my dog-loving friends!

Spinning the golden mani wheel to set prayers in motion

More devotees spinning the mani wheels while circumambulating the field and its adjoining monastry

Prayer flags adorn the mani field in the setting sun

Lamas joining in the prayer walk

House of prayer beneath blue sky

Scripture verses etched on mani wheel

White stupas- the receptacles of offerings - reach skyward

The sun setting behind the mani field

Devotees making their rounds

A young monk helps an old lady fetch water from a well

A myriad of activities by the monastry

A devotee prostrating himself while circumambulating the mani field - the highest act of devotion

As we drive back to our guesthouse in Jyekundo, I reflected on the sights of devotees carrying out their acts of religious devotion independently and openly - walking, praying, spinning the mani wheel, prostrating. What are they praying for? Are they praying for more? Or thanking that they have more? Whatever their prayers may be for, I think to myself: How easy it is to overlook such simple acts of daily devotion? How easy it is to forget that each mani stone on the mountainous pile was painstakingly carved with lines from scriptures and handpainted? How easy it is to take for granted that each step taken around the field was an individual's show to God his deep belief perhaps in exchange for protection for his family or thanksgiving for there is food on the table? How remarkable the man who in full view of the public carries out the highest act of humility - by prostrating every step of the way - and for how many rounds God only knows....

How many of us take the simple blessings in our life for granted? And how do we show our appreciation to the powers that be, or for that matter, the things and faces around us?

Perhaps it's time to take a mani moment.

Day Seven - Dzato to Jyekundo

2007-05-22T23:28:00.000-07:00

Friday, 17 May 2007

8.30am - Last night was probably a night that I slept like a log. Althought the altitude was still above 3,000, the drop in height from Tashi Chil was significant enough to give me a restful night. I woke up brushing my teeth to the view of a misty morning but with a sun that was helping to warm things up.

View from the corridor outside my room

Crossing the bridge over Dzachu in Dzato town

A view of dusty cowboy town Dzato

Restaurant serving Szechuan cuisine - our breakfast joint before we set off

View across one of the Dzachu tributaries near Dzato town

Leaving Dzato County gate behind

To search for blue skies and mountain passes

We found the blue skies... and juniper trees

Pema collecting a branch with its dark green fruits

Painting of a buddha on a rock face by the road

With scriptures accompanying to bless the area

A nomad's residence up on the hills

Tong Ren La Ka Ya mountain pass. Elevation 4760m

Latse and prayer flags at the pass

Snow filled ditches in the marshy plains

Amazing cloud formations at high altitudes

Going to the edge

Signs of spring in the highlands

Three Latse (prayer flags) marking the Chang La San mountain pass

Prayer flags frame snow-capped mountains in the distance

Prayer flags partially covered by snow on the ground

Mr Shi and his proud vehicle that took us safely through hundreds of kilometres

A nomad's house at the foot of a snow back mountain

Clouds fill the space in the valleys

A cloud sails above a knoll

One of three bald vultures scavenging for a meal

Taking flight

Soaring through the crips mountain air

A stupa aglow in the rays of the sun

Ren La Ren San mountain pass. Elevation 4505m

Colourful prayer flags sends blessings into the wind

"Mani" stones bask in the sun

The other road user

Clouds drift over the top of mountain ranges

Dashes of white on a blue sky canvas

Long road ahead with only the elements for company

Racing across an open plain with the mountains as markers

Hundreds of prayer flags stand tall like troops protecting the land

Yaks graze the open fields

The mountains part to let a river flow

The final stretch before Jyekundo

2.30pm - We arrive in Jyekundo and checked into the same Guesthouse as a few days before. The landlady wasn't there but a young assistant checked us in. We took the same room, while Mr Shi shifted to the room next to ours.

2.45pm - Hungry, we went across the street for a hearty lunch of vegetables (Shang Hai Qing), beef trips with pepper, egg omelette with tomatoes, stir-fried Bai Cai with Mushrooms, and a big bowl of noodles. The meal was excellent and we were stuffed.

4pm - After lunch, Pema and I went to a nearby bookstore in search for books that detail the location of Taschi Chil but couldn't find anything useful apart from a pictorial book containing maps of Qing Hai province. Feeling ill, Pema left me to my own devices where I decided to hunt around for a Wang Bar (Internet Cafe). I found one about 10 minutes from the Guesthouse

5pm - after fumbling about with the terminals, I found one which actually worked and allowed me to upload pictures onto my blog. I'm a happy man. I did have much time because Mr Shi had arranged to pick me up to send me to a nearby monastry famous for their "mani" stones and so I uploaded what I could and then hurried off to meet Mr Shi at 6.30pm.

Day Six - Taschi Chil to Dzato

2007-05-22T05:15:00.000-07:00

Thursday, 16 May 2007

9.16am - Having dropped the Village Chief Do Ku Jiam Chu off at Say Kay (village community "centre"), we retraced our route east and made for Dzato, which lies about 230km away. The sky was overcast with the sun attempting to break through the heavy clouds. Every now and then, it succeeded in beaming its rays to the vast marsh plains and mountain ranges below.

Trekking towards the morning sun

The white of the frozen river separating brown earth and the grey skies

A chance upon a wolf

Unspoilt marshland at above 4,000m

Careful navigation ensures we get back on proper track

A dry riverbed with the Zanarigen mountain range as backdrop

Highland deers graze in the vast open grassland

Driving to meet the mountains

Blue skies, white clouds, snow capped mountains - the ingredients of Shangri-La

An eagle circles the sky in search for a prey

A river full of "Huang He Luo Li"

At last, the sun wins its battle against the veiling clouds

1.45pm - We arrive at Zaqian town

As there are no restaurants and guesthouses in Zaqian, we made our own lunch

Boiling water in gusty winds is a challenge - better to do it sheltered

Mr Shi demonstrating his outdoor cooking (boiling water) capabilities

2.30pm - On our way again after a nice hot cup of instant coffeem bread with szechuan pickles and oreo biscuits

Uplifted spirits at a high pass

3.50pm - Traffic jam at mid levels

Passers-by lend a helping hand

The trail to get across the mountain range

The bridge across the Dzachu - now a familiar sight

Za Qing Da Qiao

4.10pm - Back at Dzato Town. Two billys scavenging for food

A less lively street in less cheerful weather

The building which housed our Guesthouse and the restaurant which we dined at (Shou Zha Da Wang Fan Dian)

Warmth by a Nomadic stove

2007-05-22T03:23:00.000-07:00

Having been to Taschi Chil, the old man who volunteered to come along with us offered to take us in for the night. And for the first time in my life, I experienced the life of a Kham Tibetan nomad. And how timely too! We no longer needed to pitch a tent in the cold, wintery heights (although that would be an adventure in itself not to be missed!)

And so we drove back to where we came from, and making our way around the plain, the old man suddenly instructed for us to make a sharp left. It puzzled me as we were in the middle of no where. I distinctively remember picking him up from a one-storey building.

Driving downslope, I can make out a dirt track - not very evident in the dimming skylight- leading steadily downhill and curving to the right. Ten minutes later, a flat structure rises from the ground. Then it made sense. His house is situated on a lower level than the main dirt track we were on.

We drive slowly along the bumpy mushy ground and passing pens full of yaks and sheep, we arrive at the front of his house, welcomed by his family. We got out of the vehicle and took our things and followed them in through a narrow door.

Once indoors, I could feel the heat coming from the stove-table in the middle of the long room. It was dark except for a white bulb hanging from the low ceiling. I put my backpack on a seat against the wall facing the stove. I was like a moth attracted to light. It's the most amazing feeling to get out of the cold, windy air and to be seated on a cushioned seat, sheltered from the icy winds, and kept warm by the burning stove just inches from my knees.

One of the family members, a man in his thirties, got about and using a spade, dug into a steel bucket by the door, and shovelling its contents into the stove table, then slide the lid back to cover the lapping flames. I thought they were coal and wondered how much it would cost them to buy so much coal. Not to mention where they would buy them from. The nearest town has got to be Dzato, which is easily 200km away. It was not till the next morning that I found out from Pema that the fuel that kept the fire burning the whole evening was dried dung from the Yaks. But I don't remember any smell, not even when burning. How miraculous! And to think people in the town use coal - and how I was choking in my bed from its fumes! We really need to take a leaf out of the nomads where it comes to recycling and going green!

Just as I was warming up, a lady in her fourties reached across the stove to refill my drink. It was a diluted version of the Yak tea and in the cold, it was comforting. She was to continuously refill my paper-cup with the tea, putting more water to boil, and making more tea for the rest of the evening that we sat there chatting (or rather Pema was chatting with them, or interpreting for me). We helped ourselves a large crucible of bread - handmade by the lady of the house, while drinking the tea. Mr Shi took out the left over "man tou" which we placed onto the metal stove to be baked. It worked wonderously as the bread become crispy on the outside while chewy-soft on the inside. Then, Pema asked if I would like to help myself to some Yak meat. I said yes, and Mr Shi helped to carve small slices out from what looked like a part of the leg. The meat was tough, but didn't have a heavy taste or smell. I chewed at it. It was tasty (or I was hungry) but it certainly tasted natural and without any hint of MSG, which was a relief. Some of the meat got stuck to my teeth so I spent a considerable amount of time chewing and picking my teeth in the dark. Pema said that the family consume a total of three yaks in a year - so I must be really lucky to walk in on them while they were having it!

Throughout dinner, I felt the stare of the children who were aged 7, 10 and 13. They were silent throughout the night, eating what they were fed by two adults who must be their parents. When I asked Pema who they were, it was then that we found out that the old man who took us to the source was the village chief (there were 8 families living in close proximity of about 20 km from each other) and that this was the house of his youngest son of six children. The kids were his grandchildren. His other children are living elsewhere.

His name is Do Ku Jiam Chu.

Well, what do you know? First, we came to dead end of a dirt track allegedly bringing us to the source, then we met a nice old man who volunteered to take us there, then we escaped a night out camping in the cold in exchange for warm tibetan hospitality. Then, we discovered the nice old man is the village chief. It keeps getting better, I tell you!

After chatting and finding out more about him, and the source (which was blessed by a holy lama called Za Na Wan Tul), and his family, and sharing more about me and where I came from, it was time for bed. Pema explained that Chief had invited us to stay with his family - inside the bedroom. I was moved by their hospitality and so gladly accepted.

Taking my belongings, I followed the lady into the adjacent room separated by a heavy piece of cloth that was as thick as a blanket. Inside, though there was no heated stove, I could feel the cold being kept out by the sheer amount of blankets and heavy textile covering every inch within the space. Pema and I were assigned the space along the wall to the right, so we slept with our feet pointed at each other. I dug out my sleeping bag and settling myself down, tried to get some sleep. I could hear the rest of the family settling into bed at the other places. Mr Shi decided earlier on that he would sleep in the car as he was used to it.

It was 10.30pm and as we were above 4,000m elevation this time, the headache hit like a jackhammer pounding at my temples. No matter which way I turned, I couldn't find a position that the headache would go away, or feel better. The unfamiliar smell of yak milk was also beginning to get to me and at some stage, I began to feel a sense of panic. It didn't help that I was also coughing badly due to the cold and the entire night was spent coaxing myself to sleep. I needed to rest, but rest was a luxury that eluded me. The last time I checked my watch, it was 6am. It must have been shortly after that I fell asleep.

Opening my eyes again, light was coming through the bedroom window. It was 7.30am. And miraculously, the headache was gone. I got out of bed and noticed that everyone else had gotten up. People of the nomadic culture sleep early and get up earlier still. Mr Shi told me they had been up to release the animals from their pens to set them into the plains to graze. He knew because he was rudely awoken by moving animals about him in the car!

8.00am - we sat around the stove-table again for breakfast: toasted "man-tou" with strawberry jam, Oreo biscuits and 3-in-1 coffee mix (diluted). We chatted somemore and I asked about the various names of the mountains surrounding us. Pema interpretted that where we are is called Yar Ba Sha Na, at about 4,400m elevation. The house that we picked the chief up from the day before is named Say Kay. The plains that we circumvented yesterday to get across to the source on the opposite side is named Ra Ya Gong Nong, which sits at the foot of the Za Na Ri Gen mountain range. I made a quick drawing and took down the tibetan writing (which was mostly guess-work anyway as the chief didn't read nor write Tibetan - so mostly based on phonetics and Pema's grasp of the Tibetan language)

By 8.30am, we began to take our leave from the Chief's residence. We set off earlier because he had requested us to drop him off at Say Kay as he had a meeting at 9am. Before we left, I took the opportunity to take shots of him and his family. We even managed a group photo. I asked Pema to get from him a mailing address so I can send the pictures to them and although I it written down in writing, we really wondered if they will receive the mail. Anyhow, I shall send it and keep my fingers crossed they will receive them. I'm certain they would be delighted to see their photos. It's the least I can do to return the warmth I received at the roof of the world.

Village Chief Do Ku Jiam Chu and family outside their residence at Yar Ba Sha Na

Pens by the side of the house for keeping the Yaks and sheeps at night

Looking west beyond the mud wall lies Tashi Chil across the Ra Ya Gong Nong plains

Day Five - Jyekundo to Tashi Chil

2007-05-21T01:24:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, 15 May 2007

8.30am - We got off to a later start this morning. I roll myself out of the sleeping bag into a chilly bedroom. Pema had already woken up and he was making himself a cup of hot coffee. Pouring hot water out of the flask the land lady gave us last night, he made another for me. Whilst packing, I help myself to some Oreo biscuits. We decided to have breakfast in the room because Mr Shi knows that no restaurant would be opened so early. At this point, Mr Shi joins us.

9.00am - We leave the Guesthouse and drove through the waking streets of Dzato.

First stop - to put some air into the tires, then fuel up the four wheeler.

And we're off, going along Ran Zhi Lu, headed steadily west out of Dzato town.

In the distance, the mountains beckon. The sky is overcast whilst the road is dusty. I secretly wish the sun would come out. Soon. If not for the photos, then for the warmth.

9.46am, we cross the Dzachu river via the Zha Qing Da Qiao. We stop briefly to confirm that we were on the right track. There is only one up the mountain and it would be a long way more to find out if we were wrong.

View of the Dzachu - which would flow southwest until it joins with the Ngamchu to form the Mekong River.

The bridge we cross disappearing slowly into the distant morning mist as we make our ascend up the Shi Sham La (Shisham Pass)

We climb slopes up to 45 degree gradient

And it's beginning to snow.

As we follow the dirt track northwards, snow capped mountains rise up to greet us.

10.02am - we arrive at the top of Shisham La. Colourful prayer flags flap in the gusty mountain winds.

Descending, the clouds appear to have heard my prayer and begin to show signs of breaking up.

Snaking down the mountain pass, the sun's rays bake the sides of the mountain.

And surely, the skies are clearing up. Below us, a mushy plain welcomes us.

10.47am - We meet a river as we approach the plain. The green-blue hues of its waters suggests its clarity.

Following the river, we meander through bumpy terrain of gravel and rocks.

10.55am - We arrive at Zaqian, a small village resting by the river.

10.58am - We cross the bridge

And headed west towards another mountain range. Along the way, we circumvented two pillar of solitary rocks that point skywards and then head downhill in a northerly direction. We soon emerge on plain embraced by majestic snow-capped mountains to its west. We are at elevation 4,300m.

11.27H - We pass a river that has its top frozen off

See the thickness of the ice over the river

And how close we had to pass. Wonder what happens in summer when the ice melts? Would this road be passable? We crossed the river at its narrowest and headed north.

11.58am - We descended the range into a valley

And continued to be awed by the view and the changing weather

12.06pm - We arrive at the edge of the plain, then begin to head downslope where we meet a wide riverbank

12.13pm - We crossed the riverbed and emerged on the opposite side. At this point, the road diverges into two tracks

We wanted to be sure so we waited for about 10 minutes before passersby came across the riverbed the same way as us. We stopped one of them to ask which way to the source.

They pointed northwards and said they were headed in the same direction. So we followed.

12.45pm - Mr Shi decided to stop the vehicle to repair the window on Pema's side. I took the opportunity to be shutter-happy

The only flowers that have started blooming in this weather.

River is one feet deep.

Yaks grazing

1.06pm - We cross a small stream

1.16pm - we crossed yet another river and headed westerly. Mr Shi stopped to repair the window again.

While I got acquainted with the rodents that rule and ruin the tibetan plains.

That's a marmot. Or so I was told!

1.41pm - We resume the journey, making our way up the mountain range. Snow and hail begin to fall

2.41pm - We reached the height of the pass and took in the view at the top of the world

See the mountains stretching as far as the eyes can see

2.49pm - We climbed back into the vehicle to continue the trek.

Passing the peaks on both sides.

Until blue skies show up again

Prayers were answered

And we make our descend

Back onto a plain about 4,200m

The road forks. We took the one headed north and then make another left, headed west.

Then crossed a bridge over clear running water and headed towards the snow capped mountains in the distance

3.31pm - stopped to help a vehicle stuck in the midst of a riverbed were crossing. They ran out of petrol. There was nothing we could do.

So we wished them well, and crossed the riverbed

And continued on our journey

When we meet with an obstacle - the river had frozen over our path

3.48pm - Mr Shi and Pema scouted for a way to get across the frozen river

See the extend of the freeze

Our second attempt

Then changing our angle of attack, though risking being stuck in ditches

Skillful driving

3.52pm - We made it!

Leaving the view behind as we continued on the dirt track

4.43pm - Then, another frozen river.

This one a lot worst than the first. We contemplated safety. Mr Shi feels it's a little risky. if we get stuck, we will be alone, hundreds of kilometres from any help. This is the point when everything seems to coming to a dead end. Should I push for it? Or should we turn back? How far can I go? Questions raced through my head. Pema looked around for another way. No other way. We either dash through the ice or we turn back.

Just then, two motorcycles came by. Pema stopped to ask them how far are we from the source. They said about 10km. Damn. This is worse than I thought. Knowing that I am so close yet so far away makes it all the more miserable. Mr Shi and Pema exchanged glances. I willed secretly that they will say yes. We watch as the passersby drive through the ice.

Seeing that they made it through, I asked if Mr Shi was comfortable trying the stunt. He looked back and, not wanting to let me down, said we shall try. And so we did. Pema and I walked across the ice while Mr Shi navigated his way...

5.32pm - We made it across. Thanks to Mr Shi's fantastic driving skills. We now have a jubilant Mr Shi looking back at the distance that we came.

And the mark that he made

The sun came through finally and we headed across yet another frozen river, though less dramatically. View from "Mani" stones by the river gives a sense of awe.

And we continue, closer than before.

6.33pm - Along the way, we cross yet another plain at 4,500m. About 50 wild Tibetan horses graze in the setting sun.

It was a view not to be forgotten.

6.54pm - The road suddenly ends at a deserted house. We retraced our route and come across a nomadic settlement. We stopped to ask for direction. An old man pointed west into the setting sun across the plain and told us the source is there. He even volunteered to come with us. Not wanting to take another chance, we took the man with us and went back the same way. Just prior to the rising slopes, he ordered a sharp turn to the right. We now cross the edge of the plain and headed southwesterly

We climb the slope before arriving at a flat. Here, ponds and small lakes glisten under the evening sun. We are very close.

7.55pm - We finally arrive at the spot where large prayer flags flap gracefully in the wind. Following behind the old man, we climb up towards the flags and low and behold, we've arrived.

Tashi Chil - The Spiritual Source of the Mekong River.

The three adventurers

The source with a frozen core

Prayer flags of the Source

Sending prayers of peace to be carried by the wind all over the world

A closer look at the icy pure core

Prayer flags at sunset

And from here, the river flows

It was a wonderful experience and all of us were elated. Three days on the road - not just the distance, but the dangers of falling over the cliffs or into ditches or frozen rivers - had led us to a spectacular view of the source in the final rays of the Tibetan sun. For that moment, each of us were lost in a quiet peace and a sense of fulfillment. It's as if we've come home.

Day Four - Jyekundo to Dazto

2007-05-20T22:43:00.000-07:00

Tuesday, 14 may 2007

I woke up at 8.10am and was surprised to find that I am not only still alive, but feeling rather fine. Met up with Pema and Mr Shi downstairs at 8.30am so we could all go for breakfast. We had dumplings and porridge (yes - the white teochew kind - ahhhhh...) then make our way to fax a copy of my visa to the Xining for processing before heading up the hill to the monastry grounds to catch an annual ritual performed by monks from the Jie Ku Shi monastry overlooking Jyekundo.

Mr Shi leaving after an unspecular breakfast. I thought is was great to have comfort food (white porridge) for a change.

The shop which charges RMB5 for a copy and another RMB5 for a fax.

The old and the new (niu)?

Street of Jyekundo

Playing hide and seek

At a cross road junction

A monk hand-paints the face of a building

Lama riding through dusty streets

We arrive at the monstrial grounds before 10am. But it didn't start on time.

So we waited while the crowd slowly filled in...

And waited...

And by noon, a string of young monks enter the stage area. But nothing very much else happened.

Until about noon, did we see some monks arrive at the centre of the ground

And presented local government officials at a viewing tent with kataks (ceremonial scarves)

And then closer to 1pm, a drum arrives

And finally, the procession marches down from the monastry...

and into the ceremonial ground

But the wait was worthwhile

Monks playing a variety of wind instruments - from the shell...

To the horn...

To cymbols and drums...

Then the dance began

The ceremonial ground was suddenly alive with colours and sounds. But we couldn't stay till the end as we needed to be on our way. We were already delayed for 2 hours. And so, we headed back to the van to get on our way. Thanks to Mr Shi who had been nice enough to walk back to pick up the vehicle and drive it to the ceremonial ground - otherwise, we would have to walk for about 20minutes back to the Guesthouse in the cold.

We decided to have a quick lunch in town before we set off - and so we gobbled down a bowl of chilli-oily noodle soup with strips of beef. We departed Jyekundo at 2.30pm.

Throughout the ride, I drifted in and out of sleep and somewhere pass Rato along the Sharpu Karpur range, we had to get off and register ourselves. This was a checkpoint imposed by the local authorities to control movement into and out of the county which was famous for caterpillar fungus picking. And this was the season.

We had to go into a long house with many doors and blankets (which made perfect sense - it kept the place nice and warm, a stark contrast to the chilly surroundings). The man - who looked rather plump, and speaking with importance - asked to see my passport. Pema spoke to them, allegedly telling them I was the tourise. He smiled when he heard "Xing-ka-pu-ra" and then turned to me and spoke in mandarin.

"Ahh, your country has very tight laws and strict control"

Sigh. Our reputation for being a "fine" country travels far and wide - even to remote areas in the midst of mountain ranges. In any case, perfects our reputation for being a lawful state helped the process - for he must think of me as a law-abiding citizen? I didn't care to find out more, just happy to know that we were given the green light to proceed. The assistant sitting at the table furiously copying Mr Shis driver's license and details finally looked up at us and returned Mr Shi's documents with a slip of paper. That was our permit.

We returned to the vehicle and drove through two "checkpoints" - each with a red rope tied across the dirt track, which upon arrival, two man would untie so as allow vehicles to pass. That was about the most exciting things that happened en route through the Sharpu Karpa area.

I slept most of the way and when I awoke, I saw the beckoning sign to Dzato. Somehow, I managed to sleep through the bumpy ride of about 300km. We arrived at Dzato town at 6.30pm.

We stayed at Ji Da Bin Guan - a guesthouse adjoining a monastry and run by a middle-aged lady who lives in one of the rooms (next door to my room). I could feel the temperature change drastically - it must be about 6 degrees or so with a gusty wind blowing right through the dusty town.

We went to the restaurant just downstairs and had a sumptous dinner comprising of beef noodles (with chilli oil), mutton fried with chilli, beef stir-fried with chilli and salty tea.

After dinner, we couldn't go back to the room because the land-lady had gone out for dinner. So we sat in the vehicle to stay out of the cold. It began to drizzle. I kept my fingers crossed that AMS doesn't strike again, and that the weather would be much better, and that the next part of the journey would be smooth like it has been thus far.

This is after all the last stop before the source.

And I have much to pray for...

Sleepless in Jyekundo

2007-05-20T22:05:00.000-07:00

View from my room at Jie Gu Bin Guan, Jyekundo (Yu Shu). Elevation 3,700m (plus three storeys). Climbing a simple flight of stairs made me breathless.

Welcome to my room for the night

The complete toilet experience. There is a full set of toiletteries including toothbrush, comb, shower caps, face towels and bath towels. And most importantly - hot water!

We went to a restaurant run by folks from Szechuan - there are lots of them working outside Sezchuan, even in such harsh climates. Mr Shi says Szechuan is over-populated - can't find employment. The steamed dumpling was filling and the hotpot of vegetable soup was what I needed badly.

After dinner, I headed straight for bed. It was about 10pm when my head started banging like a construction site. I knew that AMS had begin to strike and so I popped two panadols like the night before. But the headache didn't go away, and the dogs barking outside (there were some travellers who were unloading or loading their vehicle) plus the smoke emitting from a coal fire chimney right below my window made it impossible for to go to sleep immediately.

I tossed and turned in bed, trying to keep warm, keep the pain away from my head and keep the limited oxygen flowing into my lungs. I kept breathing hard and deliberately. Suddenly, I was overwhelmed by a sense that I may just suffocate. I took deep breaths and calmed myself down, focusing only on the rhythm of my breathing, ignoring the smell of coal and the endless sounds of the barking dogs. It was not until about 2:30am that I fell asleep...

Day Three - Xining to Jyekundo

2007-05-20T04:24:00.000-07:00

Monday, 13 May 2007

5.45am - I woke up to the sound of my alarm but needed a little more rest so laid in till 6.10am when I got up, freshened up and packed up. Downstairs, Pema and Mr Shi were already waiting and we wasted no time in loading up. We drove round to pick up tents from Ponsok, the owner of Windhorse Adventures, my travel co-ordinating agency in Tibet. After fuelling up, we were on the road. The sky was getting brighter but overcast.

First stop - Huang Yuan. The little village straddles the main road towards Jyekundo. Here, we stopped for breakfast.

Mr Shi's four wheeler parked just outside our brekkie joint.

Little family-run restaurant. Monopoly - the only one opened!

Straight from mama chef's hands

Through steamy stoves...

And onto the table. Beef noodles Szechuan style with giant dumplings stuffed with meat. The meal for 3 came up to only RMB26 (SGD5).

Back on the road

Introducing my view for the next 14 hours. Mr Shi wipes away falling snow smacking onto the windscreen.

My first encounter with Yaks - road block

Sky clears up as we headed down the high pass. Elevation still above 3,500m.

Driving up towards another high pass

Amazing clouds formation above 4,000m

Towards blue skies

From whence we came

And where we are headed next

Driving along the turqoise blue river

Open grassland. Spot the wild gazettes

Arrival at Mato Town. Pit stop for lunch. We had travelled some 494km from Xining and still 331km to go.

Mr Shi introduced the "Huang He Luo Li (Yellow River fish)" hot pot. This fresh water fish is apparently only found in this area and takes about a year to grow an inch. Yum!

The first bridge across one of the tributaries of the yellow river

Blue skies over Mato County

Prayer flags mark the Bayankala Pass at 4824m

"Mani" stones carved with powerful prayers pile about the flags

Crossing the marshlands towards Domda town

A stupa by the roadside

Passing through cowboy Domda town

Finally arriving at Jyekundo.

We've travelled some 819km from 8.00am to 8.00pm (should usually take about 14 hours, but thanks to Mr Shi's skillful driving, we saved 2 hours en route)

Day Two - Xining

2007-05-20T02:05:00.000-07:00

Sunday, 12 May 2007.

Woke up at 5.30am to a sleeping Cheng Du and having freshened up to a cup of 3-in-1 coffee, I made my way out of the sleeping teahouse-guesthouse with my bagpack, my camera slingbag, my tripod stand bag and my day pack strapped over every possible leverage on my body. The administrator at Sam's travel agency cum guest-reception was buzzing about, trying to assign another group of travellers to their buses. It was 5.45am. I was on time but my driver was not in sight. And so I placed my burden on the sofa and became witness to the commotion that was heating up in the cold Cheng Du air.

The administrator wanted to return the deposit for the room (RMB100, about SGD20) but couldn't until the room attendants had checked the room is not missing of any item, and because of that, she kept saying "jussaminit" to the agitated man. She tried to explain to the European man in his fifties but he kept snapping back at her. He clearly wanted to leave to catch the plane.

"Oh keep it, keep it!". Angrily, he stormed out of the shop and boarded the van.

As I sat there watching the drama in the early morning, I wondered how conflicts such as these can be avoided? Clearly, the adminstrator was doing her job. She wanted to return the deposit so she wanted him to wait "jussaminit". And clearly, the man wanted to leave and couldn't care very much about the RMB100.

Therein lies a conflict of interest. But is the misalignment of two wants the source of this conflict? When two parties want very things, which is often the case, does it always have to end in conflict? Are conflicts necessarily bad? And if they are not, what can be done to resolve things amicably?

The administrator gave chase and though they were about some 10 metres away, I could hear her giving instructions to the driver: hang on to the 100RMB and when she calls him on his mobile, to hand it to the man. With a resigned tone, she explained to the traveller through the window once again in broken English and wished him bon voyage, then waved goodbye to the back of a departing van and ran back to the shop to attend to me.

I felt the administrator handled the situation as best as she could. She certainly had her heart and mind in the right places. All she wanted was to ensure he had his refund, but what she got was ingratitude and a snobbish attitude. Sure, RMB100 may mean a lot more to her than to him, but is this the way we relate to a fellow human being? Broken English or not. She didn't deserve his tone of voice.

So is the traveller really snobbish just because he wanted to have his way? Yes, he certainly didn't have to raise his voice at her. But could he have tried really hard to explain his situation before but all that he got was "jussaminit"? Is it fair to judge him based on his derogatory tone of voice, and asking her to "oh, keep it", and think of him as being an arrogant rich Eurpoean talking down to a poorer wage-earner? Besides, it would be really silly to miss a flight because of a RMB100 refund.

What will be your point of view?

5.50am - My driver finally showed up. He was waiting at another hotel and only realised his error when the administrator gave him a call. I got my RMB100 refund without incident and left Sam's Guesthouse.

6.20am - Checked in at Cheng Du airport and made my way through the customs. I note the many duty-free shops lining the way from immigration to the boarding gate.

7.10am - Took China Airline flight CA4253 to Xining. Had white porridge with pickled vegetables served in an aluminium tray for breakfast.

9.08am - Touch down. Clearing customs was easy - there was only one hall and the moment I picked up my luggage, I was out. Amist the small crowd, I saw a man holding a placard that read "Mr Terence". It was my guide for the expedition - Mr Pema Gyatso, 36, Tibetan, and standing next to him was my driver - Mr Shi Yi Shen, 40, Chinese. We departed in a four wheeler and headed straight into Xining.

Along the way, Pema pointed out to architecture and gave me a quick brief on Xining and its surroundings. I didn't register very much as I was beginning to feel the dizzying heights. Xining (or Ziling) city stands at 2,200m and if you just came from sea level and intend to head anyway in Tibet, Xining is a good place to acclimatise.

After a quick drive, we arrived at Qinghai Overseas Building which is in the heart of town along No.30 Bei Da Jie. Pema checked me into a twin-sharing room with an attached toilet. The receipt read RMB120 per night. I said goodbye to Mr Shi, went to dump my stuff in the room and headed back down to meet Pema to go for lunch.

Along the way, I caught sight of a departmental store opening. They had all the staff outside the building playing tug of war. I'm not sure if there was a prize but it seemed everyone took the fun seriously.

10.30am - We made a turn off the road and headed for a Tibetan restaurant called "The Black Tent" along Wen Hua Jie (Cultural Street). There, Pema ordered traditional Tibetan cuisine.

I tried the infamous Yak Butter Tea (it's really from Dru - the female of the Yak. The Yak does NOT give milk. Hmmm, reminds me of a conversation I once had with a friend about the difference between Ox and Bull... but I digress). The tea tasted salty and buttery and certainly that takes some getting use to. We also had "Chori" (or meat dumplings), "shamdi" (porridge with minced beef and vegetables) and the Tibetan staple - Tsampa (grounded toasted barley powder mixed into a dough with cheese, butter and tea water), which Pema kneaded with his hands.

Throughout lunch, we chatted about my inspiration to visit the source of the Mekong river while he shared his sentiments about how life is like for a Tibetan living in a Chinese-ruled land. We discussed at greater lengths the actual source of the river - and it was then that my greatest fear was confirmed - he didn't know.

Through my research, I came to discover that the source of the Mekong River (Dzachu or Zaqu in Tibetian, or Lang Cang Jiang in Chinese) was widely contested and it was not till the late nineties and in early 2000 that the geographical source of the river was declared. There remain, however, many other sources, including spiritual ones revered by the Tibetans. One thing for sure, they are all located in Dzato County in Kham.

And through my discussion with him, as well as with CK of X-Trekkers, my travel agency, I came to realise that few tourists make a visit to the source of the Mekong a part of their itinerary. In fact, I was told that I am the first Singaporean to make such requests of X-trekkers, and Pema confirmed it. His travel agency - Windhorse Travel - had never taken anyone there before in their 6 years of existence.

I was naturally a little disturbed. I didn't want my trip to be a wasted one. I wouldn't mind the geographical source asserted by Tamotsu Nakamura (Director of Japanese Alphine Club) and Pete Winn (Science Director of Earth Science Expeditions) in their 1991 letter to the Editor of Geographic Journal of RGS - which tells of a glacial spring at the head of Lasagongma Creek (which can't be found in any of my guide books) - or any of the spiritual sources believed to be the true source by ancient Tibetans. I just didn't want the trip to end up being a wild goose chase. Yet amidst the noisy conversations in my head, I felt Pema's reassuring aura. I had the sense that things would go well with this Tibetan and what I needed to do was to surrender to what was to unfold and flow with the elements. It was a blind leap of faith but I decided to trust him.

"If you choose to follow someone, then trust him."

I mused to myself as I remember saying this to someone before. Now I need to practise what I preached.

1 2.30pm - I felt a headache gnawing. This has got to be the altitude sickness setting in. I recalled a passing remark made by the taxi driver in Chengdu who drove me from the airport to Sam's guesthouse:

"If you sense something's amiss, you got to go. Don't just stay there"

I decided I had better return to my room and rest. So I bade farewell to Pema and arranged to meet him for dinner at 6.30pm.

5pm - I woke up earlier as I didn't want to be late for my appointment with Pema. I was glad I did as I felt much better after the sleep. And since I was already up, I decided to roam the streets. The temperature was about 25degrees with a slight breeze and it was refreshing to take a stroll.

Major crossroad junction at end of Bei Da Jie

View from under the circular overhead pass

Vendors along Ren Ming Marketplace

Smells flooding all senses at Ren Ming Marketplace

6.30pm - Pema took me to several Chinese restaurants but they were all full, so we ended up in Boronia Cafe, on a street next to Bei Da Jie. It was a restaurant serving western food but there was just a strange imitation atmosphere about it. He had a steak while I decided on a bowl of noodles soup. We shared a salad which came with prawns - and since Pema didn't take them (he says Tibetans think they are insects and they don't eat insects) - I had them all to myself.

9.00pm - After dinner, I felt the headache coming back and so I told Pema I'd return to the hotel to rest. We arranged to pick me up at 5.45am the next morning and I headed straight for bed. By then, I felt as if my head felt like a pressure cooker that was slowly but surely being pressurised. I waste no time in popping two panadols to ensure a good night's rest. After ten minutes, the pain was gone and I fell into a restful sleep.

Tomorrow, we set off in search of the illusive source.

A Prayer for Everyone

2007-05-18T03:02:00.000-07:00

I'm headed for a sacred site near Yushu (or in Tibetan - Jyekundo) so till I next blog, here's a prayer for everyone back home (and abroad)!

Tashi Chil - The Spiritual Source of the Mekong

2007-05-18T02:42:00.001-07:00

Me at elevation above 4,500m

Having a taste of the source - (n)ice!

Prayer flags by the source

Looking at the source from the flags

A closer look

And so the river flows

Flags at the source at sundown

I'm back from the Source!

2007-05-18T02:12:00.000-07:00

After so many days of silence, I'm finally back in front of an internet computer! And I've been to the source. I've got so many gigabytes of pictures to share but I can't upload it on this terminal. And the space bar is not working. Will figure a way to get the pictures online soon. And make time to catch up on the entries. Thanks for the many prayers for my safety, posted comments and emails. I'm having an adventure of a lifetime!

I guess I'll just leave you with some words to give you an idea of what the last few days were about!

Here goes:

Long drive. Hot Pot. Yaks. Eagle. Ferrets. Wild stallions. Vast grassland. Snow. Hail stones. Winding roads. Snow capped mountains. Frozen rivers. Rocks. Bananas. Acute Mountain Sickness. Hot water. Confusion! "Do you know where the source is?" Fox. Wolf. Nomads. Monks. Motorbicycles. Cold. Prayer Flags. Pee by the road. No toilet. Fish swimming upstream. Farm stay. More yaks. Vulture. Stupa. Trek. Mud. Dirt track. Which way? Buns. Yak Tea. Heavenly views. Lakes. Streams. Mekong. Or Dza Chu. Or Lang Cang Jiang.

Tashi Chil. The spiritual source.

Sights and smells of Chengdu

2007-05-12T22:01:00.000-07:00

I've managed to transfer pictures from my SD card to the Compact Disk. I'm a happy man!

Arrival at Chengdu highway gantry

Room for the night. Note the blue lighting.

Street just outside Sam's Guesthouse

One of the many al fresco karaoke gatherings

One of the stalls that caught my eye (nose too!)

Irresistable Szechuan satay!

Ok, the uploading part does take a long time, so I'm only uploading some for now. My stomach beckons!

Day One - Chengdu

2007-05-12T20:25:00.000-07:00

The four hour and thirty-five minute flight arrived at Cheng Du airport at 3:05pm in the afternoon. Customs was surprisingly easy and I was waiting for my luggage by 3:15pm. By 3:30pm, I was wheeling my luggage out of the main gates. What a breeze!

Immediately outside, I was welcome by a big fat sign with four familiar letters printed in bold on a placard - QUEK. Ok. There was NO WAY I would have missed it. I walked up to the holder, who was very busy on the phone. She greeted me and exclaimed in relief that I was zhong guo ren (Chinese man) because I spoke in mandarin to her. She quickly corrected herself and said she was glad she could converse with me in mandarin. I would have told her that yes, my Grandfather came from China, if not for that fact that she needed to quickly introduce me to the driver. She had to run and meet another passenger who was arriving. And so I followed the driver across two traffic lanes and to his passenger carrier.

Along the forty minute drive (I swear it was lesser) along a highway, I note with interest the vastness of Chengdu. Everywhere, there was developments upon developments - mostly condominiums and office blocks interspersed with existing shopping blocks and older shop houses. I recall back on the plane as I was looking out of the window, I saw huge areas that looked like citadels. It's only when passing at close range that I realise how massive these projects were. And most of them are still being built. The waking of a sleeping dragon?

On arrival at Sam's Guesthouse (130 Shanxijie, Chengdu), I was shown my room, which interestingly, was found inside a large teahouse. As I walked through the doors of the restaurant, I saw a room with bay windows wide opened and in the room, four ladies were playing mahjong! The next hallway was lined with comfortable chairs and coffee tables and everyone seemed to be having a good time and enjoying their tea - the traditional chinese way. There was a pond in the middle of the establishment and a small concrete bridge amidst beautiful landscaping which brought me to "Meeting Room 4" which is not a meeting room at all but a corridor with about eight doors. I entered the door marked "2003". They use a key card system, mind you.

The room may be simple but it's very comfortable, clean and complete. Apart from a bed (firm would be the word I would use to describe it), there was an attached bathroom, a respectable 20" TV, an old fashioned bedside table with a radio set into it, an arm chair and a dresser. Not bad at all, considering they charge only 100yuan a night for this single-bed unit (about SGD20). Not wanting to miss out on the sights, I took to the streets by 5pm

Rambling along, I stumbled upon the Renming Garden (People's Garden). I was amazed by the variety of activities one can find in this place!

The garden itself cannot be compared to the famous landscaping of Suzhou Gardens - but the hive of activities more than make up for it. There were people sitting around tables with a porcelain cup of tea each, and most were either playing card games or chess. Several people were sat with their heads tilted to the side, with an attendant welding a long metal rod and stiking it periodically. This is ear waxing - Chengdu style. Next to the al fresco teahouse, couples or families were paddling in a lake, or up and down little streams, passing below arched bridges or stopping to collect their orders from a food hawker. Meanwhile, deep in the heart of the garden, below mature willow trees, larger crowds gather to listen to random ensemble of musicians with a singer belting out allegedly popular tunes through portable sound systems. In fact, they are everywhere! I remember an old man obviously singing out of tune to a song I remember from the Monkey God series (Journey to the West which aired in Singapore eons ago) but no one seems to mind. Idol rejects should come here. This is a haven made for them.

Walking out of the wooded part and into a courtyard, I note that at one corner, a woman was singing her heart out while standing in front of a blue screen. On closer look, I realised she was doing a live recording and making her own MTV - her image being super-imposed on beautiful scenary. There was even a queue for this service - which allegedly cost 100yuan. Mum should be here.

The circular court yard is framed by pavillions and shades, and again, a host of activities make the place come alive. People where roller blading, dancing (with no music), playing badminton (they drew their own lines), practising tennis strokes with a ball that is attached to an elastic rope anchored to a heavy bag at their feet, playing drums, and flying kites. Everyone seems to be in their own world, yet not minding that they were sharing the same space as someone else doing a totally different activity. How amazing!

I realised how different and relaxed the Chinese here were compared to those I met in Beijing and Shanghai. They didn't seem to mind doing exactly as they pleased wherever they pleased - I'm picturing people back home taking to the park and doing their karaoke outdoors next to people skateboarding! That would be a sight!

Strolling along, I couldn't resist the smell of a Szechuan BBQ stick and so I paid 5yuan for one huge satay. It was tingly spicy and salty - very tasty! If not for the fact that I should really watch what I eat for I'll be taking to the mountains soon, I would have gone for seconds. Or thirds. Feeling guilty, I bought myself a cup of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice - how different it taste. The juice is very sweet and almost thick. Most refreshing.

Having whet my appetite, I made my way out of the gardens, still musing over the outdoor karaoke sessions and mixed hotpot of activities. Dinner was a nice big bowl of szechuan beef noodles (with very small and LITTLE beef cubes) at a shop just outside the garden. I made my way back to the room, had a nice hot shower and now I'm out at Sam's Tour shop (which is just outside the teahouse which is really a guesthouse???) and as I'm typing this entry, my stomach is growling again from the whiffs of szechuan flavours floating across from the other side of the street. Think I'll take a walk...

Oh, before i go, Alvin - you are right! They seem to have blocked Blogspot sites! Not only can I not see journeytosource.blogspot.com, I can't see journeytosource2.blogspot.com too! Oh well, I'll just have to update my blog blindly via email and hope it turns out right. Someone please email me and tell me what this entry looks like?

Take Off!

2007-05-12T10:30:00.000-07:00

I've checked in at T2 gate E1, awaiting my Silkair flight to Chengdu.

Thanks to Alvin, Daniel, James, Jackson, Simin, and Zhiwei for coming by so early in the morning to send me off at the airport. And for the gift of a wonderful blink-as-you-brush-toothbrush! Now the Yaks will know when I'm taking care of my teeth!

Clearing through customs was not as breezy as before. Probably because they had to look at my bottle of lens cleaner which I had wrapped dutifully in a ziplock bag. Or perhaps it's because I was wearing a pair of black Gortex bootex, black trekking pants, and a black cap. Or perhaps because everything on my trek pants seems to be triggering off the metal detector! the last time I checked in the mirror, I didn't look like a terrorist. Maybe I should check again...

Ok, I hear the call for boarding. So Chengdu, here I come!

The Night before

2007-05-12T00:10:00.000-07:00

I'm finally done packing!

It's amazing how much one can squeeze into a 55L backpack. I'll spare you the gory details but know that somewhere in there, I've got my zero degree sleeping bag, a pair of sandals, my full Gortex gear, a spare fleece, and medical kit. Not to mention health bars and a nice big bag of Twirls. The only thing I haven't got is my pair of gloves. Can't remember which friend I lent it to. Or which corner of my wardrobe I had hidden it in. I guess I'll just have to pick a pair up at the airport tomorrow.

Remember my Slingshot bag? It's equally amazing. I've stuffed all the gadgets, batteries, spare batteries and more spare batteries into the various slots in the main compartment. I've just gingerly inserted my camera and now it feels complete. Final weight? I guess about 7kg or so. Ive put in also a small box of silicon gel to take out the unwelcomed moisture. In the top compartment, my passport, air tickets, journal and a book on Tibet are now sitting nicely inside, ready to be flashed into action anytime tomorrow. Not to mention my new pair of Oakleys with a retainer band. I got it because I needed to shield my eyes from the sun's glare and harmful rays. Promise.

For added safety, I've decided to put all that I am worth (monetarily speaking) into a skin pouch which would wrap around my waist securely. Talk about security blankets. Come tomorrow, I'll put my backpack on, sling my camera bag in front of me, and shoulder the tripod, and I'm ready to take to the mountains.

But first, send a list of emails to friends, then to bed.

Publishing posts by email - it works!

2007-05-10T05:29:00.001-07:00

Was looking through the settings and saw that there was an option to publish a posting via email.

So I decided to try it out.

And it works!

Now I can email my postings directly to my blog. :)

Prevention is better than Cure

2007-05-10T05:28:00.001-07:00

I've gotten my jabs - and what a lot of jabs!My visit to Tan Tock Seng hospital's Travellers' Health @ Vaccination Clinic (Tel: 6357 2222) was a fruitful an informative one. The clinic interiors looks like a spa and the staff are knowledgeable and friendly. I highly recommend anyone heading to less developed places to pay them a visit.

I took a total of four jabs - Influenze Vaccine ($18.30), Tetanus-Diptheria (TD) ($10), Hepatitis A-Havrix (Adult) ($66.20), and Typherix Injection ($15.20). Consultation was $8.10. They'll also give you a World Health Organisation International Certificate of Vaccination card which records the details of the vaccination taken.

On my way out, I picked up several brochures which I found to contain useful information, especially for those of us who like travelling to uncharted territories *wink*

Here's a couple of more relevant information for people intending to climb to high altitudes and visiting places where hygiene is suspect. (Source: Brochures from Travellers' Health @ Vaccination Clinic, TTSH)

Acute Mountain Sickness - This occurs when one ascends to high altitudes especially if the ascent occurs over a short period of time. It can occur at any altitude but most frequently it occurs at 2,000m (6,500ft) or above. Commonly affects the younger male (me?), those with past history of altitude sickness and those who ascend quickly. Symptoms can start within hours to days after exposure to high altitudes.

Symptoms include:
MILD: headache, poor appetite, insomnia, nausea, tiredness
MODERATE: unrelieved headache, vomiting, decreased urine output
SEVERE: Unable to walk straight, decreased consciousness as a result of brain swelling, difficulty with breathing as a result of excessive water in the lungs, blueness in digits

What to do?
1. If mild symptoms occur, stop ascent and stay at the same altitude for a day or two, then ascend cautiously.
2. Severe symptoms require immediate descent to a lower altitude and drug treatment. Consult a doctor in the area. Normally, both descent and drug treatment are required for severe symptoms.
3. Oxygen therapy or use of a hyperbaric bag may be required.
4. In patients with brain swelling or water in the lungs, even if symptoms improve with treatment, they should not be allowed to reascend. Future trips should be in consultation with a doctor to discuss the use of drugs in prevention of symptoms.

Prevention:
1. A slow ascent is important. Monitor own rate by symptoms
2. Carry drugs for altitude sickness. This should be done in consultation with a doctor
3. Avoid sedatives, tranquilizers and narcotic analgesics (certain pain killers)
4. Drink plenty of fluids and take a low salt diet
5. Avoid strenuous over-exertion
6. Adequate clothing to prevent hypothermia which can aggraviate altitude illness
7. Avoid external transport to higher altitude (animal or mechanised) especially if person is having physical problems continuing on his own, because accelerated ascent can worsen the problems.

To a certain extent, altitude sickness can be prevented by taking 250mg acetazolamide (Diamox) three tiems per day from one day before ascent until two days after reaching the maximum height. Possible side effects include: nausea taste disturbance, tingling hands and feet, frequent and copious urination, visual disturbances and skin rash. Allergies to sulfur drugs are a contraindication to Diamox.

Hepatitis A - A viral infection that affects the liver caused by the Hep A Virus. It is usually transmitted by eating contaminated food and water, especially raw seafood (clams, cockles, mussels, oysters, shellfish) or even partially cooked or unhygienic food. Or even through poor personal hygiene - transmit from person to person!

Incubation takes 2 - 6 weeks. Syptoms include jaundice or yellowing or eyes and skin, fever, right sided upper abdominal discomfort, dark or tea-coloured urine, pale stools, poor appetite and nausea.

Prevention: Immunisation is best. But also to observe strict food and water hygiene (avoid ice from suspicious sources!).

Visit www.netdoctor.co.uk/travel for more information on travel health.

Bug on my Blog

2007-05-10T05:26:00.001-07:00

I've encountered problems posting new entries on my original blog since two yesterday. Tried several measures to overcome it, including visiting www.bloggerstatusforreal.blogspot.com which gives pretty comprehensive solutions. It seems there are many out there who are encountering the same problem - you can log on but you can't post.

In any case, rather than sit around and wait for things to get back to normal, and in response to a fear that I may encounter the same problem when in China/Tibet (can't possibly sit around and wait for things to get better!) - I've decided to create a mirror site.

www.journeytosource2.blogspot.com

I'll be updating my primary blog (when it's up), and then cut and paste onto the mirror blog, and if I still encounter the same posting problem, I'll update the mirror site and then cut-and-paste over to the primary site when it's up. So if you don't see any new postings on journeytosource, do check out journeytosource2... and if there are no new postings on either, it just means I can't find an internet connection!

Packing My Bag

2007-05-08T10:07:00.000-07:00

With three days to go, I'm putting ticks to my checklist item by item. I've checked all my camera equipment and accessories, testing the system so I am both familiar with them and satisfied that they work. I'm packing my bag with all the necessary items so I can take good shots and bring them home.

I think it's important to be meticulous during preparation - to check that everything is in tip top operating condition. Afterall, someone once told me that success is dependant on 90% preparation, 5% execution and 5% luck. And those from Scouts would be familiar with the motto "Be Prepared".

Whilst preparing for this trip, I muse over how many of us would spend lots of time preparing for trips and excursions, even if they are short ones like a day out for a picnic or a weekend break. We check for the lowest fares, we ask around for the best prices, we note the must-sees and the must-dos. Yet, how many of us are truly prepared for the greatest journey called "Life"?

I recall conversations with friends about various life journeys - deciding on University courses, choice of University or scholarship, career, career switch, settling down... It's funny how these journeys are really much more significant than a short weekend break or a summer vacation, but they received significantly lesser amount of attention.

My favourite question is as always "What do you want?" and to that question, I get a variety of responses. Some get all excited because they know exactly what they want. Others look as if a comet just hit them in the face. Most don't know. Or they just choose to let life unravel itself.
Granted that there is really no way of telling what the future brings - just like I wouldn't know what my journey to the source would eventually look like - but planning helps me get closer to where I want to go. And preparing for the trip allows me to enjoy it the way I want to. Otherwise, I may end up at a totally different place, or worse, get into trouble. I'd rather not leave too much to chance.

I like the analogy of planning for life like planning for a trip . If we spent months or weeks planning for a holiday, then how much time are we spending on preparing for a University course, a career, a marriage? Shouldn't we spend a proportionate amount of time on preparing for the future we want to see?

I know some of my friends out there are at their first major cross-road of life. It's really a scary and yet exciting time, and sometimes, the answers are not all that apparent. But take heart. Great journeys start with a single first step. Let the heart be the compass. Then let the head figure the path. And once the direction and path are set, prepare! Prepare so you are equipped to deal with what is to come. Prepare so can make the best of the journey. And prepare so you can enjoy the ride.

How are you packing your bag?

Hopefully, a shot to f(r)ame

2007-05-07T10:32:00.000-07:00

It's amazing how ingenious a Lowepro Slingshot 300AW bag really is! A slingbag with ergonomically designed zippered compartments turns instantaneously into a waist pouch, giving easy access to the camera accessories snugged comfortably in fully detachable compartments. And it comes with a weather poncho that tucks away neatly below.

And of course, I had to fill the bag with a Nikon 50mm F/1.8 lens, a polarizer filter, eneloop rechargeable batteries, a SANYO 15min Quick Charger, extra Toshiba SD cards, lithium-ion camera batteries, a PD70X CompactDrive, and come Saturday - my prized Nikon D80 kit camera. The only thing that wouldn't fit is the Velbon carbon tripod.

This evening's stopover at the camera shop set me back by a hand and a limb but I choose to see it as an investment. Afterall, I had already put in that much, it didn't make sense not to put in a little more to protect the initial investment. It's like buying a pretty house, and penny-pinching on fire insurance. Besides, it would be a shame to wreck my camera whilst trekking up the trecherous terrain. I would certainly hate not being able to bring a piece of heaven back for keeps.

All these trouble, hopefully, I'll get a good shot to frame. Or to fame. Most preferably, both. :)

In the beginning

2007-05-06T09:35:00.000-07:00

It's 5 days away from my flight out to Cheng Du and I'm still packing.

Setting up this blog is but one of the many things I needed to do before my adventure which has taken more than 3 months to plan and would take 3 weeks and some days to complete.

I've got my schedules all lined up - a visit to the doc's to get immunisation jabs; the camera shop to pick up my external hard-disk for emptying my camera's memory cards into; the travel agent's to pick up my passport and maps; and final shopping to pick up a list of items.

It's amazing how a flash of an idea last December has set forth the wheel of events in motion, turning a dream into a reality - well, almost - till I get on that plane.

Some call this the power of intention. Others call it sourcing. Whether God, a stroke of luck, or lots of help from caring friends was involved, the fact remains that in the beginning, I didn't know where, how, or when I would get there. I just wanted it bad enough. And so I made plans, spoke to people, did my research, and took action. Everything showed up over time and fell into place as if it was all part of a script being played on life's stage. It's not magic of course, but I can't help but think that perhaps the universe conspired to help me get what I want. I'm pretty familiar with this way of living, and I know many more others who live their lives like so.

So what's this journey all about?

I had a little notion that I would find an answer to one of life's many mysteries by tracing to the source of the Mekong River.

And so begins my journey to the source...