Day Five - Jyekundo to Tashi Chil

Wednesday, 15 May 2007

8.30am - We got off to a later start this morning. I roll myself out of the sleeping bag into a chilly bedroom. Pema had already woken up and he was making himself a cup of hot coffee. Pouring hot water out of the flask the land lady gave us last night, he made another for me. Whilst packing, I help myself to some Oreo biscuits. We decided to have breakfast in the room because Mr Shi knows that no restaurant would be opened so early. At this point, Mr Shi joins us.

9.00am - We leave the Guesthouse and drove through the waking streets of Dzato.


First stop - to put some air into the tires, then fuel up the four wheeler.


And we're off, going along Ran Zhi Lu, headed steadily west out of Dzato town.


In the distance, the mountains beckon. The sky is overcast whilst the road is dusty. I secretly wish the sun would come out. Soon. If not for the photos, then for the warmth.

9.46am, we cross the Dzachu river via the Zha Qing Da Qiao. We stop briefly to confirm that we were on the right track. There is only one up the mountain and it would be a long way more to find out if we were wrong.

View of the Dzachu - which would flow southwest until it joins with the Ngamchu to form the Mekong River.

The bridge we cross disappearing slowly into the distant morning mist as we make our ascend up the Shi Sham La (Shisham Pass)

We climb slopes up to 45 degree gradient

And it's beginning to snow.

As we follow the dirt track northwards, snow capped mountains rise up to greet us.

10.02am - we arrive at the top of Shisham La. Colourful prayer flags flap in the gusty mountain winds.

Descending, the clouds appear to have heard my prayer and begin to show signs of breaking up.

Snaking down the mountain pass, the sun's rays bake the sides of the mountain.

And surely, the skies are clearing up. Below us, a mushy plain welcomes us.

10.47am - We meet a river as we approach the plain. The green-blue hues of its waters suggests its clarity.

Following the river, we meander through bumpy terrain of gravel and rocks.

10.55am - We arrive at Zaqian, a small village resting by the river.

10.58am - We cross the bridge

And headed west towards another mountain range. Along the way, we circumvented two pillar of solitary rocks that point skywards and then head downhill in a northerly direction. We soon emerge on plain embraced by majestic snow-capped mountains to its west. We are at elevation 4,300m.

11.27H - We pass a river that has its top frozen off

See the thickness of the ice over the river

And how close we had to pass. Wonder what happens in summer when the ice melts? Would this road be passable? We crossed the river at its narrowest and headed north.

11.58am - We descended the range into a valley

And continued to be awed by the view and the changing weather

12.06pm - We arrive at the edge of the plain, then begin to head downslope where we meet a wide riverbank

12.13pm - We crossed the riverbed and emerged on the opposite side. At this point, the road diverges into two tracks

We wanted to be sure so we waited for about 10 minutes before passersby came across the riverbed the same way as us. We stopped one of them to ask which way to the source.

They pointed northwards and said they were headed in the same direction. So we followed.

12.45pm - Mr Shi decided to stop the vehicle to repair the window on Pema's side. I took the opportunity to be shutter-happy

The only flowers that have started blooming in this weather.

River is one feet deep.

Yaks grazing

1.06pm - We cross a small stream

1.16pm - we crossed yet another river and headed westerly. Mr Shi stopped to repair the window again.

While I got acquainted with the rodents that rule and ruin the tibetan plains.

That's a marmot. Or so I was told!

1.41pm - We resume the journey, making our way up the mountain range. Snow and hail begin to fall

2.41pm - We reached the height of the pass and took in the view at the top of the world

See the mountains stretching as far as the eyes can see

2.49pm - We climbed back into the vehicle to continue the trek.

Passing the peaks on both sides.

Until blue skies show up again

Prayers were answered

And we make our descend

Back onto a plain about 4,200m

The road forks. We took the one headed north and then make another left, headed west.

Then crossed a bridge over clear running water and headed towards the snow capped mountains in the distance

3.31pm - stopped to help a vehicle stuck in the midst of a riverbed were crossing. They ran out of petrol. There was nothing we could do.

So we wished them well, and crossed the riverbed

And continued on our journey

When we meet with an obstacle - the river had frozen over our path

3.48pm - Mr Shi and Pema scouted for a way to get across the frozen river

See the extend of the freeze

Our second attempt

Then changing our angle of attack, though risking being stuck in ditches

Skillful driving

3.52pm - We made it!

Leaving the view behind as we continued on the dirt track

4.43pm - Then, another frozen river.

This one a lot worst than the first. We contemplated safety. Mr Shi feels it's a little risky. if we get stuck, we will be alone, hundreds of kilometres from any help. This is the point when everything seems to coming to a dead end. Should I push for it? Or should we turn back? How far can I go? Questions raced through my head. Pema looked around for another way. No other way. We either dash through the ice or we turn back.

Just then, two motorcycles came by. Pema stopped to ask them how far are we from the source. They said about 10km. Damn. This is worse than I thought. Knowing that I am so close yet so far away makes it all the more miserable. Mr Shi and Pema exchanged glances. I willed secretly that they will say yes. We watch as the passersby drive through the ice.

Seeing that they made it through, I asked if Mr Shi was comfortable trying the stunt. He looked back and, not wanting to let me down, said we shall try. And so we did. Pema and I walked across the ice while Mr Shi navigated his way...

5.32pm - We made it across. Thanks to Mr Shi's fantastic driving skills. We now have a jubilant Mr Shi looking back at the distance that we came.

And the mark that he made

The sun came through finally and we headed across yet another frozen river, though less dramatically. View from "Mani" stones by the river gives a sense of awe.

And we continue, closer than before.

6.33pm - Along the way, we cross yet another plain at 4,500m. About 50 wild Tibetan horses graze in the setting sun.

It was a view not to be forgotten.

6.54pm - The road suddenly ends at a deserted house. We retraced our route and come across a nomadic settlement. We stopped to ask for direction. An old man pointed west into the setting sun across the plain and told us the source is there. He even volunteered to come with us. Not wanting to take another chance, we took the man with us and went back the same way. Just prior to the rising slopes, he ordered a sharp turn to the right. We now cross the edge of the plain and headed southwesterly

We climb the slope before arriving at a flat. Here, ponds and small lakes glisten under the evening sun. We are very close.

7.55pm - We finally arrive at the spot where large prayer flags flap gracefully in the wind. Following behind the old man, we climb up towards the flags and low and behold, we've arrived.

Tashi Chil - The Spiritual Source of the Mekong River.

The three adventurers

The source with a frozen core

Prayer flags of the Source

Sending prayers of peace to be carried by the wind all over the world

A closer look at the icy pure core

Prayer flags at sunset

And from here, the river flows

It was a wonderful experience and all of us were elated. Three days on the road - not just the distance, but the dangers of falling over the cliffs or into ditches or frozen rivers - had led us to a spectacular view of the source in the final rays of the Tibetan sun. For that moment, each of us were lost in a quiet peace and a sense of fulfillment. It's as if we've come home.